Home Real Estate Harvesting Dig vs. No Dig Potatoes – INTERESTING Results!

Harvesting Dig vs. No Dig Potatoes – INTERESTING Results!

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Harvesting Dig vs. No Dig Potatoes – INTERESTING Results!

It’s been 4 months since we started our dig vs no dig potato experiment. The plants have started to die back which is a sign that they’re ready (although we probably could have left them longer). We pull the plants and weigh the spuds and find some very interesting results.

Which planting method gave the biggest yield? Let’s find out…

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25 COMMENTS

  1. New subscriber here. I'm in the US, but I'm enjoying what you're doing in Portugal and have entertained the notion of moving somewhere overseas in some years time. My partner and I have considered it for some time, especially after what is going on with the political situation here. Portugal has been on the table of consideration. My partner is also a Programmer/Coder from way back since the late 60's. We are located in Cheyenne Wyoming and urban garden, but let me tell you, it's difficult with the city regulations and being surrounded by city folks and their ideas. Your garden and land looks beautiful.

  2. Hi! Your results are very similar to mine. In the dig area the soil gets very compacted and the potatoes don't have room to grow( we can almost see the shape of small rocks carved in some potatoes) and also the quality of the soil is not the best, we try to add some compost but we don't have enough for the moment.
    At the same time we grew some in containers full of compost, and add some natural fertilizer, and the result so far is good, not excellent but good, it's the easiest way to grow potatoes and I'm trying carrots right now. Next time try also planting potato peel and see the results.
    Love the show.

  3. Yes you are right!!! In the dig patch. Feed it with grasclipping around the plants it will when thick 4-5 cm thick. Preserve the moisture and eventually you get worms in. You need much more fresh compost and mulch. You have to dig a old compact soil by hand about 20-30 cm deep and feed it with cow shit, thick layer, mulch and turn top to bottom. Ones a year. Preferably in autumn, you have heavy clay and you then get in air for the micro life to start. I would recommend a better spade, a pointed one that cuts the soils. Fiskars have a excellent one I bought one 20 years ago and a wide flat fingered fork not a round one. In clay that fork will be your life and back saver. I use it for most things. In havey clay to take something out of the ground you need to wiggle or losen the soil’s. So for havesting potatoes for example place the fork close to the plant and bend and the clay will free the potato plant. I normal go the raw down and first losen the plant lift with the fork and then dig some more. Backing down the row. Leave the leave’s in the grown after your self, burying the plant with the next soil. When you are digging take to custom to turn the soil top goes in bottom of the hole. That way you mixing it. Your machine maybe can do some of this work but you need a plow not a mulcher., A plow also turns the soil over and airs it. Good old arm grease. The first year is always worst. Talk to a cow farmer for fat, straw bed, manure. Avoid saw dust beds the compost process takes to much out of the manure. If possible get a hole tractor scoop ore two, what you can manage and spread out and dig down. In a couple of years you will have the fatest soil in the neighbourhood. Repeat yearly and during growing cover soil with mulch, gras cut is high on nutrients and is fantastic weeding. Keep covering during plant life. The best of luck and I love your channel. Less is more!

    Example of fork: Xact Soil Work Fork L
    💪🏻🌻

  4. Hi Guys, well done on your experiment. Sometimes it's the best way to learn. Every garden is different.
    My mother grew up on a farm in Poland and I remember her saying two things about growing potatoes that have stuck with me over the years. One was that potatoes were used to break up the soil as a first planting to prepare the ground for other crops. They can grow in hard soils, but I never did ask her what the yields were like in that instance. The other thing she would say is that potatoes don't like too much water so they didn't water them. Needless to say that does not work for us here in southern Australia in the drier, hotter parts of the year and from what I can gather it is not too dissimilar where you are living. We grow potatoes year round and the harvests differ quite a bit depending on the time of year we start them as well. Your neighbours might be helpful here too. Perhaps the reason they are not needing to water is that they have been working the soil for some time and it has better water holding capacity than that which you are planting in because it is lacking hummus and is too compacted to soak up the water which just runs off it.
    Anyway onwards and upwards 🙂
    I love watching your channel and I am always inspired by the amazing work you are doing and the progress you are making. It would be great to have neighbours like you 🙂 All the best

  5. USE ROTAVATOR and leave all the weeds there to feed the new growth and all compost and maybe a little nitrogen to also feed and imporve the soil and dont be affraid to water with your waste water

  6. Now I have thought a little about your problems with potatoes in the Old Garden. I think the Earth is way too firm so you should probably have it loose with a Broadfork – Broad Grip
    and then you should probably mill 5-6 times. add horse manure and let it stand for 24 hours and mill a few times again.
    Try not to go where you have to plant in the future
    Broadforks is an old northern European tool that has recently become prominent again as an excellent option for soil aeration / solution, WITHOUT soil inversion. But many people think that they also work very well for harvesting, for root crops such as potatoes, carrots, etc.

  7. I've been harvesting early potatoes grown in buckets, it's worked very well, we've got very little space here in the Netherlands, so it's possible to stack buckets in a pyramid until they get going and then when they're done I moved the buckets to a useless space for storage.

  8. Look into building a root cellar to help preserve your harvests for longer. For ideas check out Iranian traditional ice houses and combine it with root cellars.

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