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Wow!!! Never realized insulation was so complicated. Seems Kylie is getting a handle on it. Best to you both.

Given all the work yet to do on the house, do you have an estimate of when you might move in?

Sometimes when she's explaining something about a certain spot you keep the camera on her and don't show what she's actually talking about. It would just be nice to see what she's explaining. For example one of the times was when she's talking about above the window in the bathroom.

A great and informative video as always. Thank you🥰.
However, the basic rule of insulation is that it should go to the cold side. The simple reason is that otherwise you will get condensation in the structure. In your case, the moisture will condensate somewhere within the stone walls.
Furthermore, running electrical cables on the cold side of things can lead to condensation within the hull of the cable. I heard of cases where the water dripped out of the sockets.
I understand that you don't want EPS or similar on the building, but maybe there is something hamp based that can be used on the outside?

How willyou be installing the electrical circurts in each room

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putting the hemp crete in direct contact with the outer wall and wood framing is fine with respect to vapor and moisture? Is the only “control” method for those the inherent breathability of the materials?

This will be a very interesting insulation journey 😊 We are going to learn a lot as you try, adapt and succeed. 👌👍

Well hello i am a fan of your channel.

I would like to say, that you need to know better the properties of the material that the house is build of.

Because when you say the stone walls dont have any kind of insulation, i think that's an error, because as you can experience in summer the down floor of the house is quite fresh, so the insulation is there.
I Am an architect and my specialty is, old houses renovated, Stone houses, old timbers etc.

If you like i can give you some tips.

Best of luck

Have you Considered Laying mall width hemp bricks & filling the gap with hempcrete.

Interesting! My limited experience of sound insulation found that material density and sealing of all gaps was key to success. Hence why concrete floors are far better than wood. Even the tiniest of gaps will transmit sound so doing this yourself will allow you to make sure everything is done right (rather than trusting a builder that knows you may never know how well it was done). I'm sure you've considered this but the external wall depth opens up possibilities for the glazing as well. Renovation of the original windows and adding secondary glazing being an interesting possibility? Thanks as ever for your content.

Getting insulation right (effective), whilst a lot of up front cost and work on a build like yours, will pay off in the long term. You'll both be sitting there comfortable in your dotage (I'm thinking you'll have to wait until you're in your 90s for dotage, the way you two are 😊 – that is a compliment!) thanking yourselves for all of the thought and hardwork you've put into this stage.
I've had my first food crop fail (most of it) on my balcony garden – my garlic. It pays to follow sound instructions when you make your first attempt at growing something. which I did not do quite enough of. I've really enjoyed learning though and look forward to getting it more right for next year's planting.
On a positive note, my Dwarf Meyer Lemon (her name is Lemonina) who lives in a large pot, is 6 years old (and has 'been through a lot' like her owner – but that's all on me, not her🙄😂) is coming back from the brink of another near death experience thanks to me learning some particular pruning techniques from an arborist who specialises in problematic fruit trees and doing some finely tuned specific mineral adjustments to the soil – because I messed up when I fertilised her last (potted citrus can get rather finicky about timing of such things – where I live anyway).
I'm also about to embark on a new hobby – woodwork – but the right way. I'm going to start very small, with good quality, but only the bare necessity of handtools – because I like the idea of having put some grunt into achieving a result and being as I live in a total of 45m2, there aren't any huge projects going to happen any time soon.
So…. quite a bit of my reinvigoration to get out there and try more things, have more of 'a go', has been inspired by you both. Thank you and keep up the great work.💖🐨💖

Aren’t you negating the thermal storage of your thick stone walls by giving it an insulating hemp plaster layer?

Good ‘boots’ and a good woolly ‘hat’ is all great – but the thick stone walls are giving you excellent temperature regulating property that you’d effectively insulate away. Since it’s still sunny in the winter, the stone walls will be warmed by the sun in the day and radiate the warmth at night – free heating…

In the summer you could shade the south facing and west facing walls with deciduous greenery (tree or a climber on the wall surface) and it would prevent the sun from heating the stone… so the stone, in turn would hold and ‘radiate’ the cooler temperature into your living space – free cooling!

If you still need a thick plaster to cover the electrics, you could use something less insulating (like cob?).

Anyway – love your channel! This isn’t criticism, just maybe something to think about and see if it makes sense for you.

All the very best!

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Do you have any more detail on the wood fiber please. We have a similar job to do, and I'm looking at all sorts of solutions. Thank you
Ps we are also in Portugal so if you can get it, we can too

Hey from Holland. Do the two of you even half realize how useful all this information is to me as I am about to buy a property made of similar materials? I cannot thank you enough and your videos have definitely boosted my confidence about taking on a similar (albeit smaller) project .

Interesting info + peek at wine project. You sound recovered from the knackeredness of a previous video and i'm glad you are.

I rent a small appartment,,,, Im just fine. No digging no damp problem

Since you live in Portugal, you might consider spray cork instead of plaster.

For the roof. If you use Gutex Multiplex Top, on top of the stucture, underneath the counterbattens, then you dont need a membrame.

Look at De Hoeve, old belgian farm renovation. They use Hemp blocks.

For the floor above you can take a look at Pavacoustic. It's a top floor product made of OSB and woodfiber.

Good to hear the "bye". at the end!! We still wait for it every time….Hehe! And chuckle afterwards….What a lesson in insulation. As South Africans, we just freeze for a week, about 3 times a season, or we sit in bed those three weeks….telling ourselves we need to do admin, then afterwards we go on with life, promising ourselves before next winter we will buy a coal stove to heat the house. And we never do it. But I must say, I often contemplating better insulated windows at least since I'm getting older. So we can't wait to see your practical solutions to insulate. A field we really know nothing about. You really inspired us to try making wine with our "Hanepoot" variety of which we have 3 pergolas full. We will have to dig a whole in the ground to make a wine room. Hope you will teach us how to make domestic wine as well one day?….all the best!!

You two are doing it… finding the right way that suits your home… rock onto the next video.

When you are applying the 40mm hempcrete coats on the walls, you can maintain thickness and flatness by installing furring strips every 2 to 4 feet vertically out to your desired thickness, shimming as necessary so you end up with a flat plane on the wall. Once the sections between the strips are done, you remove the furring strips and fill them in the gaps flush with the rest of the wall. You screed the plaster from furring strip to furring strip. This is how tile installers prep a 'mud' wall for tile, too. The temporary wood strips should be a bit of a 'V' shape so they come out easily.

Great video… I like all the different options and applications for your insulation plans. After you press the musk do the skins go to the chickens or can you add it the the compost bin? Thanks for sharing!

Hi guys. Here in the Netherlands, 10 cm (width of a brick) is called half-brick thickness, while the length of a brick is called brick-thickness.
Half brick is only used for inner- or cavity walls.
It'd be best practice to have a cavity-wall, ideally a skin on the outside, but that is not an option. That is less ideal because you'll not be able to use the thermal mass of these big walls. Having to build a wall on the inside would mean to need ventilation shafts/holes in the outer wall to prevent condensation problems. The idea is that the outer wall will keep the inner out of rain, wind and direct sunshine. The ventilation here in the Netherlands usually is created to stack a few bricks next to each other (stack means vertically) without mortar, leaving 4 slits next to each other.
These usually are near the bottom as well as near the top of the cavity, and depending on the width of the cavity, every so many meters.
It'd be best practice to have slits close to the edges to prevent standing air.
That having said, nowadays the regulations are that if you go from the inside to the outside, you have your layer or render on plasterboard for instance, then a plastic layer (damp and water tight), then insulation layer (preferably something like OSB to screw in, Kingspan/rockwool/hemp, maybe other layer of OSB) then a damp-open water-tight layer, cavity, and the outer layer with ventilation that is covered with stainless mosquito mesh (against insects and mice). The inner water and damp-tight layer just under the render should prevent the moisture entering the wall, as most of the dampness comes from the inside, where during winter the air is warmer and holds more moisture. However, the breathabillity will be less that way. Will be interesting to see what u guys come up with ;o)
You guys are amazing. I learn a lot about sustainable building in Portugal.